28th September Fowey to Plymouth

What a passage!  The forecast was force 4/5 occasionally 6 with a moderate sea.    Like several other yachts, we decided to make a run for Plymouth.    It was grey, misty with a fine drizzle when we left Fowey but as we made our way out of the entrance of the harbour, the sea was very moderate!!  The wind was already a force five, so we took a reef in the main and secured our safety harnesses to the cockpit.   Initially we thought the journey challenging, but it was nothing to what we faced as we neared the entrance to Plymouth Sound!  The seas were rough, the wind was gusting 27 knots and to add to our difficulties, a large naval exercise was taking place in our path!  I am afraid there are no photographs as the camera was down in the cabin and no way was I going to remove my harness to go down and get it!  

Once inside Plymouth Sound the seas were much calmer and we berthed in Queen Anne's Battery Marina  just before 2pm.

 

27th September St Mawes to Fowey

The nineteen mile passage from St Mawes to Fowey was very enjoyable.  A strong tide made up for the force two winds and we sailed along at five knots.   After the tough passages around Lands End and the Lizard, it was nice to have a gentle sail in a slight sea.   

Fowey is a quaint and pretty harbour.  Even in September the narrow streets are crammed with visitors and there are still plenty of visiting yachtsmen to keep the traders happy. 

Picture shows a steam boat in Fowey

26th September Falmouth to St Mawes

 

On the 25th we collected for Help For Heroes and raised £319.35

 

After fixing the macerator and cleaning the boat we left Falmouth Visitors Marina and motored the short way across the Fal Estuary to St Mawes.   We picked up a mooring buoy and took the dingy ashore.   It was a lovely sunny afternoon and Tony and I sat on the water front watching a 'working boat'  race.  The colourful stripy top sails made a pretty picture against the blue sky.   It felt like summer all  over again!

Picture shows Falmouth in the early morning sunlight

22nd September Penzance to Falmouth

22^nd September    Penzance to Falmouth

Penzance is a very small  slightly scruffy working harbour, but it has a lovely atmosphere and the harbour staff are incredibly helpful.   We recommend a visit to the Admirals Bembo, a pub full of character, just a short walk from the harbour. 

Sadly it was a brief overnight stop in Penzance for us, as we needed to get to Falmouth to repair our macerator pump.  The macerator pumps the heads water out to sea, but three of the screws had severed and a slow drip had been escaping into the bilges causing a very unpleasant smell in the boat!   

We were up ready for the Penzance lock to open at 0315hrs but in true Cornish time the lock gate did not open until just after four 'ish'!   The sea was moderate and the wind force 4 and as we headed towards the Lizard where the Atlantic swell causes confused seas.  It was dawn on our approach and grey clouds hung over the headland.   We gave the Lizard a very wide berth.  It was disappointing to be so far out to sea, as the precipitous cliffs were hidden in the early morning mist.  Once around the headland and into Falmouth Bay the seas calmed considerably, allowing us to see two dolphins jumping in and out of our bow wave.  They did not stay long, but it brightened the otherwise grey and damp morning.   We tied up in Falmouth at 1105hrs.

In the evening we met up for a meal with Richard a close family friend, who is stationed at nearby RNAS Culdrose.  

21st September Padstow to Penzance

After informing the Coastguard of our passage,  Moonshadow slipped out of Padstow on the first lock opening at 0315hrs.  The pilotage out of the Camel Estuary was made easier by noting the group light flashes of the buoyage,  in large text on a whiteboard.   It is not easy to read in the dim light of the cockpit, but the large text and a head torch allowed us to follow the channel buoys with ease.   We also found it useful to put a dark cloth over the chart plotter to block out the glare.   Even when set on 'night palette' the plotter is bright enough to interfere with our night vision.  

Once out of the Estuary, we made good speed south and anchored in St Ives Bay for a brunch stop.  There was not enough time to go ashore, as we needed to make Lands End by slack water.   St Ives looked picturesque and it was easy to see why artists love St Ives for the quality of its light.  The town was very bright against the blue sky.  

In the time it took me to make a bacon roll and a mug of tea, the wind went from a force three to a force six.   A heavy swell comes into the bay in windy conditions and it was clear that we needed to pull up the anchor and leave!   Once out of the bay the wind eased to a force four, however, a moderate sea kept us on our toes.   As we reached Lands End the seas became quite confused and remained so until we turned into Mounts Bay.   We arrived in Penzance at 1645hrs in good time for the lock gate. Then it was an early night as we needed to be up and ready at 3am for our next passage to Falmouth.

Photograph was taken in St Ives when we first arrived.

18th September Milford Haven to Padstow

Although the weather was in our favour to make the passage to Padstow,  the tides were not, and it meant a night passage.  Entry to Padstow is safer in daylight due to rocks, a sand bar, shifting sands and a lock gate that opens +/- 2 hours either side of high water.    We timed our departure to take account of the strong tides of the Bristol Channel  that would  change direction  during our crossing.  It was a good test of our navigation skills!   

 After informing Milford Haven Coastguard of our intended passage to Padstow, we checked our navigation lights, torches and safety equipment.  Finally we turned off the cabin lights to adjust our eyes to night vision and left  Dale just after midnight to make the 53 mile crossing to Padstow. 

 A very lumpy sea greeted us as we left the Haven which made us feel apprehensive.  The next weather forecast was due at 0150hrs. We agreed to turn back if the weather deteriorated from the previous forecast.  

The lights of Milford Haven were very comforting as we left and once we lost sight of them  we felt very alone!   Apart from a few fishing boats near the 12 mile fishing limit, we didn't see another vessel until we were nearer to Padstow.   

 About two hours into the passage we saw luminous streaks shooting through the water towards our bow.   The dolphins were back!  At a very fast speed they were coming from the port and starboard quarters, jumping into the bow wave.   We had seen dolphins on our crossing earlier in the year,  but this time they had brought their babies to see us!  They stayed for some time, delighting us with their antics such as darting in and out of the beam of the boat, rolling on their sides, jumping almost clear of the water and zig zagging along side of us.   We were disappointed when they left, but just before dawn they returned.     At the same time we spotted a whale.  He was big!  Unlike the minky whales that glide,  arch then disappear, this one remained on the surface and gave a large blow.  The sea was moderate and in the grey dawn  we watched him float horizontal to the surface and swim in the opposite direction to us.  We could not see a fin, which would have made him easier to identify.   He had a wide back and quite a flat body.    The three blows we witnessed were at least 3 metres high.

Our arrival in Padstow was spot on.  We got there just as the lock gate opened and tied up along the harbour wall.  We treated ourselves to Rick Steins Fish and chips and a mug of hot tea as a reward for the long passage.

14th September Still in Milford Haven

We left Neyland Yacht Haven after filling up with fuel and water, and then picked up a mooring buoy at Dale to await suitable weather and tide to cross to Padstow.     Dale is a pretty bay, sheltered from all but northeast/east winds just inside the Milford Haven entrance.   

As the wind was forecast to be F5/6 with moderate to rough seas off the Cornish coast we decided to spend a day exploring Dale.   Dale Flats to the north of Dale is an area of scientific interest.   The bay dries considerably, exposing edible cockles, muscles and scallops.    I was delighted to see several oystercatchers amongst the hundreds of gulls enjoying this wonderful feast.  The oystercatcher has the most wonderful voice and is very clever at digging up cockles with his long red beak then breaking the shells open.  Tony and I spent the whole afternoon just wondering the mud flats and then exploring the rock pools closer to Dale.   In the warm sunny evening we sat on the front of Moonshadow watching members of the Dale Sailing club race back and forth past us.   

Since that day we have been to Milford Haven Marina to seek refuge from the northeast winds, motored back to Dale to get an early start to Padstow,  then back to Milford Haven to seek refuge from torrential rain and winds.   Just as the weather looked in our favour, we discovered a leak from the engine!   At the time of writing the engineer has just left,  but rough sea has been forecast on the Cornish coast!    Anyone fancy joining us in Milford Haven for Christmas?

Apologies for the delay in up-dating the blog.  It has been difficult to get on line.

3rd September Dale to Neyland

After a disturbed night's sleep we were grateful for the short passage along the Haven, past the terminals and shipping at Milford Haven and on to Neyland Yacht Haven. 

Our sole purpose for visiting the area was to get the VHF radio replaced and to give ourselves some R&R before the next long trip to Padstow.  

 

2nd September Fishguard to Dale, Milford Haven

Another lovely day with little wind and a lot of engine!   We are missing sailing – bring on the wind!

About an hour into the passage a swarm of flies landed on the boat.  It was horrific.  The pictures do not show the flies at their worst.  I tried brushing them off with a broom whilst Tony threw buckets of water over the entire boat to wash them away.    Even an hour later they were still swarming on the wind generator like bees in a hive.  It was so nasty, I hope we never encounter anything like that again. 

A puffin at very close quarters and a couple  of porpoises helped us to feel a little better.

 We arrived in Dale at dusk.   The fly experience had zapped us completely and we did not consider the wind or tide direction when we moored up to the free visitor's pontoon.  The consequence was that we were kept awake all night by the slapping of water on the aft cabin!  What a day!

1st september Llanddwyn to Fishguard Via Porth Dinllaen

We left Mr Seal and Mermaid Cove at 0630hrs for the short passage to Porth Dinllaen.  There we awaited the afternoon tide to take us to Fishguard.  It was a lovely sunny day but the wind had deserted us,  so we had to motor the entire 53 miles across Cardigan Bay. 

About two thirds of the way across the bay, a securite was given from a warship, detailing an underwater explosion that was due to take place in the area of Cardigan Bay we were heading for.  The radio had a lot of interference and we did not hear the coordinates that were given to identify the area of the explosion.     I tried to make contact with the warship and Tony tried the Hollyhead coastguard and Milford Haven Coastguard without luck.  We could listen but not transmit.  The VHF kept switching from high to low frequency and would not allow us to change channels.   Our radio had failed.  To add to the problem,  we were too far off shore for our handheld radio to work.   Eventually the warship gave out a further message which satisfied us we were not in the way of their exercise, but it was uncomfortable sailing in the dark knowing that we had no means of radio contact until we got nearer to land.

The reassuring light from Strumble Head lighthouse was easy to identify, as was the flashing green light at the entrance to Fishguard,  however once past the bright lights of the main harbour we found it very difficult to get our night vision back.  We had planned to pick up a mooring buoy, but in the dark, with so many other boats and numerous pot marker buoys scattered around, we decided to find a spot to anchor instead.  We awoke in the morning to find ourselves anchored in a very scenic  and sunny spot.   

 

31st Holyhead to Llanddwyn Island

We had a very slow but enjoyable sail from Holyhead to Mermaid Cove east of Llanddwyn Island.   Mermaid Cove and Pilot's Cove are sheltered anchorages amid a number of drying rocks to the west of the Menai Strait entrance.  Mermaids Cove is a very pretty  with sandy bays and a nature reserve nearby.    After anchoring, we were delighted to see a huge seal lazing on a nearby rock looking at us.  Mr Seal remained on the rock all evening and in the morning when we awoke he was still laying there looking at us.  

The morning sunrise was spectacular.  The sky, land and sea took on a lavender hue while the sun projected a warm yellow glow.  The picture was taken in Mermaid Cove at about 0615hrs.  If you double click on the photograph you will just make out the outline of Mr Seal on his rock.

30th August Isle of Man to Holyhead

The times of tides in our favour for a passage south were getting later in the day, so it was 1315hrs when we left the Isle of Man on passage to Holyhead.     The weather was sunny, the sea slight and with winds between force 1-3 we had to put up with the drone of the engine all the way. 

During our trip we have seen so many seas, but for the first time we saw a sparkly sea!   It looked like hundreds of sparklers dancing just above the surface of the water.   The scientific term is bioluminescence and it is caused through biochemical reactions generated by organisms in the sea.  The photograph was taken towards the end of the display and therefore does not do the scene justice.

 It had been a lovely warm day, but the temperature dropped quickly as the sun went down and treated us to another stunning sunset.  The west coast is so beautiful and the seascapes and sunsets are amazing.     Our day was topped off by a wonderful star filled sky.  

27th August

After a trip home for a few days, we returned to Moonshadow to continue our journey south.   Leaving Whitehaven at midday, the sea was slight and the wind force 3.  However it soon became a force 5 with a lumpy sea and I was sea sick for the first time on our trip.    Maybe I was a little anxious after our crossing to Whitehaven! 

Once we arrived in the beautiful sweeping bay of Douglas, Tony called the harbour master to check it was OK to enter the harbour. Douglas is the Capital of the Isle of Man and is the main shipping port on the island; therefore it has considerable traffic including ferries and commercial shipping.   We were given the all clear and  moored up on the visitors waiting pontoon in the outer harbour at 6.30pm.  Entry to the inner harbour/marina is through a lifting bridge and sill,  so we had to wait for the next lift which was at midnight.  

 Finding a berth is not easy in some marinas during daylight hours, but in a very narrow marina in the dark it is very difficult!   We eventually tied up in our  snug berth at 12:30am!

Our Sunday afternoon collection in Douglas raised £402.59.  Thanks go to Sgt Power at the Douglas Police Station for counting out the money with us.  He also promised to thank those who had contributed via his regular radio show.