29th June Loch Sunart to Ardmore Point on the Isle of Mull

 Our original plan today was to head just past Ardmore Point, drop anchor and catch a couple of mackerel for our supper.    However as we reached the Point we spotted the two fins of a basking shark in the water.   We soon realised this giant was not alone.  There were several of them, ranging in size from about 5 to 9 metres long.  Nearby, other boats were also watching groups of basking sharks.   We spent over three hours watching them glide around with their mouths wide open, filtering plankton.   Tony and I could not believe our luck and felt very privileged to see these huge fish at such close quarters.   Later we heard reports from the local wildlife centre that there were up to 40 sharks out there!  It was hard to leave the sharks, but it seemed only fair  as by mid afternoon, so many boats had arrived on the scene. 

After mooring up in Tobermory marina, we set off to the local shop to purchase some supplies and could not believe our luck when we saw a minky whale jump clear out of the water!  We rushed around the bay to the entrance of the harbour only to witness a much larger minky whale swimming gracefully out towards the Sound of Mull!  The whale that had jumped out of the water was much smaller than this beautiful creature, so was probably her calf!  We were glued to the spot along with two men who had also witnessed this incredible sight!

Today has to be one of the best days of our trip so far.  Nothing can possibly surpass what we have witnessed today! 

The bright sunlight and reflections on the water spoilt many of the photographs.  This is one of the better ones. 

28th June Tobermory to Loch Sunart.

The collection around Tobermory harbour on Saturday raised £304.46 for Help For Heroes. 

On the 28th we had hoped to sail to Rum and Eigg,  but the weather  forecast  predicted strong winds and rain on Wednesday and Thursday.   There are no safe harbours on either Rum or Eigg so we decided to postpone our visit to a later date.   

We settled instead for a leisurely sail across the Sound of Mull, to anchor just off of Oronsay Island, in Drumbuie basin.  The basin and Oronsay island are within Loch Sunart.    The basin was very picturesque with steep sided mountains that turned from green to pink then black as the sun set.   The bird song was delightful and redstarts were reported to be in the area.

Photograph shows the rocky tidal island of Oronsay.

 

27th Tobermory on the Isle of Mull

The school holidays have yet to start, so Tobermory was fairly quiet when we carried out our collection for Help For Heroes yesterday.  After each collection we have  asked the local police station to witness us opening the seals on the collection pots and to confirm the amount collected.  The police station in Tobermory is only manned on a part time basis, so we have to wait until Monday morning to find out how much we have collected. 

 

Ignoring the heavy rain showers Tony and I enjoyed a coastal walk to Ardmore Point in the hope of spotting the seals that are reported to laze on the rocks by the lighthouse.  We saw a seal pop up just off the coast but the rest must have been lazing elsewhere.  Tony did have an encounter with a large slow worm whilst eating his lunch and we saw a great black backed gull, but otherwise the wildlife were staying hidden today.

Photograph shows the lighthouse at Ardmore point

26th June - Armed Forces Day!

 

25th June Oban to Tobermory

There was less than one knot of wind at times, so we had to motor down the very scenic Sound of Mull to reach Tobermory mid afternoon. Tobermory has become quite a tourist attraction due to the children's TV programme Balamory.  The colourful houses and shops that edge the bay are delightful.

 

 We are collecting for Help For Heroes in Tobermory on the 26th (tomorrow) which just happens to be Armed Forces Day. 

 

24th June Oban

Today we remained shore based.   Oban Marina is opposite Oban on the island of Kerrera.  The marina provides a free water taxi to Oban which we used to collect supplies from the mainland.  Once back on Kerrera we enjoyed a walk around the island with spectacular views in every direction.  We were lucky enough to spot a bird of prey soaring overhead which had a pale patch at the end of its wings suggesting it was a buzzard or possibly a Red Kite.   We are still trying to identify another smaller bird that looks similar to the sparrow,  but when it takes flight it shows  a white patch on the tail feathers.  Its main characteristic is its ability to hover and swoop.  Several of these jolly little birds entertained us along our walk along with a herd of highland cattle.

23rd June Crinan to Oban

The crew of Tikko the yacht that accompanied us through the Crinan canal invited us to sail with them up to Oban. The passage to Oban is quite tricky.  There are strong tides, two tidal gates and many rocks and small islands waiting to catch out the unprepared yachtsman.   The skipper of Tikko was very experienced in sailing the Scottish islands, and his two crew mates were great fun, so we accepted their kind invitation. 

The scenery as we came out of the Crinan Canal was stunning and it just got better and better!  Our course took us through the Dorus Mor sound and to the west of Luing,  up past Seil and into the Kerrera sound.  Along the way we enjoyed views across to Jura, Scarba,  Lunga the Garvelachs and the Isle of  Mull.  There was very little wind but Moonshadow still flew along at between six and ten knots.  We left Crinan at 0845hrs and arrived in Oban Marina at 1230hrs.

Photo shows Tikko leading the way towards Dorus Mor Sound

Crinan Yacht Basin

22nd June Tarbet to Crinan

 

We left Tarbert in good time to arrive at Ardrishaig at the north-west extremity of the Firth of Clyde, to take the short cut through the Crinan Canal  to the outside west coast.

Having purchased a licence from the canal office, we entered the first sea lock along with another yacht Tikko, whom we remained with all the way through the canal.   There are 15 locks (three automated) and seven bridges along the nine mile stretch from Ardrishaig to Crinan.  It was jolly hard work opening and closing the locks.   Two Royal Navy P2000 vessels were also on transit through the canal and the young and fit crew helped us for the first six locks, which was a great help. 

Our licence allowed up to three nights in the canal so we took advantage of this and stayed in the canal basin at Crinan.  

Photograph - Michele waiting for the lock to open

Close up of shell beach

 

Shell Beach

Photograph was taken on shell beach.  Fishermen deposited the empty scallop shells in a small bay at the side of Tarbert. 

20th June Troon to Tarbert (Lower Loch Fyne)

Troon is a fairly large marina with all facilities so we made a brief overnight stop there to fill up with diesel, collect supplies and use the laundrette.   

The following day we had a lovely sail to Tarbert.  On passage the depth sounder went from 170m to 6m.  It stayed at this depth for about 15 minutes before returning to 123m.  We had sailed through a submarine exercise area.   Perhaps a sub had been under our keel!   

Tarbert  is a picturesque and well sheltered  harbour.   It even has its own castle, a ruin that dominates the harbour entrance.  The photograph shows the delightful view we had from the stern of Moonshadow whilst moored up in Tarbet.

 

18th June Stranraer to Girvan

This afternoon we sailed to Girvan, a traditional harbour used by both fishing and pleasure craft.  We rafted up to another yacht, aided by the very willing harbour master, who had stayed after hours to welcome us in.  

 

Bad news is that there is no fuel available until Monday!  We were unable to get fuel in Stranraer as they were awaiting delivery.  If our maths are correct we have enough fuel to get to Troon tomorrow, and the predicted winds of 4/5 should help us on our way.  It has highlighted the need for us to carefully plan and check ahead to see if we can get fuel, before setting out. 

 

Photo shows Moonshadow rafted up in Girvan

Ailsa Crag rising out from the sea and the mist!

 Ailsa Crag is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and home to black guillemots, shelduck, puffins, gannets, kittiwakes and gulls.  The island also has the largest slow worms in Europe.  At one time the fine grained micro granite in the south-west of the Island, was used for curling stones, however the quarries are now disused.

17th June Portpatrick to Stranraer

Our plan has been to get up to the Scottish Isles ASAP as the weather is better in June/July than it is in August.  We are already on the drag, so had to leave Portpatrick and move on, but it was not easy.  Portpatrick is a real gem on the west coast.  However, once we left the harbour we had the best sail of the trip so far.  With views of Ireland, The Mull of Kintyre, The Isle of Arran and the amazing Ailsa Craig together with 15 knots of wind and bright sunshine, who could ask for more.  A Minky whale glided gracefully past the yacht no more than 6 metres away.  What a wonderful day!

 

Today 18th of June we had a quick walk around the town of Stranraer.  Once again we found the locals very friendly.  We had a visit from two local police officers, who regularly visit the harbour to check on new boats coming in to the marina.  They gave us a tip for warding off the midges - Avon Skin so Soft, the green one!    Bet they have nice soft skin!

  

We are off to Girvan about 20 miles up the coast,  giving us another chance to see Ailsa Crag, a great chunk of rock that soars out of the sea to nearly 340m. 

 

The photograph was taken in Portpatrick.  It was a long way down and the photograph was taken mid tide!

16th June Peel to Portpatrick

Seven curious seals popped up to say hello on this passage!  First one popped up at on the starboard side of Moonshadow, then another at the stern, followed by another on the port side.  We brought the yacht to a stop and the seals continued to pop up!  They were looking at us with huge eyes, but before I could get the camera ready, they disappeared under the water!    As we arrived at the Mull of Galloway we caught a glimpse of a Minky whale. 

 

The quaint harbour of Portpatrick is a small walled harbour that offers protection only in good weather.  At one time it was a main ferry port for ships crossing to Northern Ireland, but now only accommodates smaller craft and local small fishing boats.  

 

We rafted up to another yacht with four Irish guys on a sail training week.  As well as plenty of banter, we picked up lots of useful tips to help us if we managed to make it to Ireland on the return leg.

15th June Douglas to Peel

The passage to Peel meant getting the tide right to miss the over falls at Langness, but still arrive at the Calf of sound before a strong tidal race set in.   We arrived at the Calf 30 minutes later than planned and the sound had started to get a little turbulent.   We needed plenty of power to get us through the narrow rock edged passage!  

Peel is a wonderful place.   A castle dominates the harbour entrance which is principally a fishing port.    We arrived too late to enter the locked marina, so picked up a visitors mooring off of the sandy beach.   The photograph shows the stunning sunset we enjoyed that evening. 

In the morning we took the dingy ashore and after a shower at the yacht club we treated ourselves to kippers for breakfast at a small cafe.   There was a wonderful atmosphere in the town and we were made most welcome.

Once back on the boat we were treated to a wonderful display of jelly fish floating through the crystal clear sea.

 

13th June - Conwy to Douglas

13^th June Conwy to Douglas

Our passage to the Isle of Man was a eleven hour trip with no port of refuge.  The weather forecast was for force 4/5 wind, slight sea and rain or showers.  At 9am we left Conwy in sunshine,  but within two hours the rain arrived.  Tony and I took it in turns to either helm or take shelter inside.  The front soon passed and we continued on to the Isle of Man in sunshine.  We arrived in Douglas just after 2000hrs.  Photo was taken as we left Douglas.

5th June Porth Dinorwic to Conwy via the Swellies!

The passage from Dinorwic to Conwy was via the Swellies , a narrow, rock strewn stretch of water between the Britannia Bridge and the Menai Suspension Bridge in the Menai Straight.  The tides can run at over eight knots at springs and even up to the 1960's yacht traffic was advised to avoid the Swellies.  The trick is to arrive at slack water and to follow a recommended passage route to avoid the rocks.   

 Having scared ourselves silly reading information about the Swellies, Steve the harbour master at Dinorwic drew us a rough sketch and we set off feeling much more confident.    When we arrived at the Swellies it was fairly slack and keeping to a recommended course by Steve we were soon safely through.  

As we left the Menai straight we passed Puffin Island.  The smell of urine was very strong reflecting the amount of birds that were on the island and flying around.   We didn't see a single puffin.  My son informed me that there has been a problem with rats on the island resulting in numbers of puffins falling, but this was now being addressed and the puffin population is growing again.  

We arrived in Conwy Marina early evening,  but moved the next day to a mooring buoy under Conwy Castle.

Porth Dinllaen to Porth Dinorwic

The journey from Porth Dinllaen to Porth Dinorwic was very scenic.   On arrival at the Caernafon bar we had to forget the GPS and charts as they were out of date.  The bar extends for 3 miles west of the coast and the depths and positions of the sandbanks are subject to frequent change.  Fortunately the buoys are moved accordingly.  At springs the tide can run at over 5 knots and first timers are advised to arrive at the bar on slack water.   Our timing was spot on.  It was tricky locating the buoys but otherwise we had a smooth passage over the bar and into the Menai Strait.   On route we passed Caernarfon Castle that dominates the Caernarfon harbour.  There is a very nice marina there, but we continued on to Porth Dinorwic, arriving just before the lock gates were shutting. 

The inner yacht harbour is very narrow and was quite daunting for us, but Steve the harbour master was very helpful and reassuring.  Nothing was too much for him and in the evening as we sat in the local pub, he gave us more advice on passing through the notorious Swellies.

 The harbour can be traced back to Viking times and in the 19^th century it was developed to export slate from Snowdonia.   Porth Dinorwic is very pretty harbour that we will definitely return to.

 

2nd June Pwllheli to Porth Dinllaen

 

After carefully working out slack water times to pass through Bardsey Sound situated on the SW tip of the Lleyn peninsula, we decided to leave Pwllheli early and anchor in Aberdaron Bay for a lunch stop.    Aberdaron  Bay lies just before Bardsey Sound and was a convenient place to wait for the right tide in the sound,  to avoid the tidal race.  It was a lovely sunny day and we were quite reluctant to leave the bay, but hauled up the anchor and set off through the sound.   On route we passed the rugged cliffs of Bardsey Island.  The island is now a nature reserve, but was once a refuge for holy men, the earliest church being built in the 6^th Century.  The ruins of the Abbey of St Mary of Bardsey dating from the 13^th century are still visible.

Once clear of the sound, we sailed inside the Tripods, a shoal that causes over falls even on a calm day and hugged the spectacular coastline up to Port Dinllaen.  This small  bay allowed us a perfect anchorage for the night, set against the backdrop of rugged mountains that reflected the evening sunset.